DIY: How to change ignition coils and condensers

Today we're taking a further look on my 1963 Evinrude Sportwin 10 hp. I got it as I mentioned from a man who had bought it new in 1963, he even had the original owners handbook for the engine! Sadly the original petrol tank had been stolen somewhere back in time.

I tried to start the engine a couple of days ago, but it didn't quite fire. It more or less coughed a couple of times but not much more than that. So, I pulled the flywheel off to inspect the ignition system, and here is what the ignition coils looked like.

The coils were badly corroded and cracked, so I had to replace them. I also chose to replace the condensers just in case, but deemed the points fit for work.

I ordered the coils and condensers monday evening, and today (wednesday) I got them. That's some quick delivery!

Anyway, I started to tear it apart.

The coils on this engine are attached with three bolts. Remove them, unscrew the HT leads and the positive and ground leads.

Here is the first coil and condenser removed. Clean the baseplate thoroughly before installing the new parts.

New coil versus old one

New coil and condenser trial fitted

Attach the HT lead,ground and positive wire the same way as they were. Obviously.

Reinstall bolts, check coil alignment.

The same procedure goes for coil and condenser number two.

Here are the new parts installed

Set point gap. Many OMC engines (Johnson/Evinrude) uses 0.020" point gaps. See your engines manual for correct specs for your engine.

Reassemble flywheel

Prepare for start up. The Evinrude fired on the first pull!